Author : Muhammad Naimul Hasan , Md. Imrul Kayes Limon and Md. Samsul Arefin

In this article multiple pieces of chromed tanned leather with a thickness of 1.00 mm were used to sew together by the utilization of a selected cutting needle count (LR90) to assemble stitch and turn seam with a definite dimension for the study. The seam was assembled with different SPC (stitches per cm) (3, 4, 5 and 6) with specific four types of SC (stitch construction) i.e. lock (301), chain (401), zig-zag (304) and also combination of 401 and 304 to observe the results and other parameters like material, machine, thread were kept unchanged which may influence the strength of seam. The objective assessment was to find out the best combination of SPC (stitches per cm) and class of stitch construction (SC) that presented the best seam performance or seam quality in terms of seam strength, seam efficiency and thickness strain. Here, ASTM D 1683 method was followed to determine the seam strength and it was revealed that seam strength amplified with the increase of SPC up to certain level. The seam with 301 SC at 3 SPC provided the best seam performance whereas seam with combination (401 and 304) at 3 SPC shown significant seam strength as well.

Keywords: SC, SPC, seam, seam strength, seam efficiency, thickness strain.